Sistas just wanna have fun.

And for some sistas, that means Venice.

I asserted in a post last year that winter is a great time to go to Venice, not only for lack of crowds and access to restaurant tables, but because you can afford a hotel you might not be able to otherwise. Rosie and I went back this winter to make sure we still felt that way.

We did. In fact, after this last visit, we're even more convinced that January/February in Venice is the way to go.

And here's another plus: It dawned on me this trip that, somewhat counter-intuitively,  it’s easier to pack lightly in winter:  Because you’re wearing a coat, you don’t need so many options for walking around. Two tops and two bottoms will suffice for a week. Add another two tops for evening and you’re good to go -- with some accessories to keep you from boring yourself to distraction.

A designer with an atelier in Dorsoduro backed us up on our appreciation of winter in Venice. He said the months between Christmas and Carnevale are the best -- the weather, granted, can be rainy at times, but the temperatures are mild enough for walking and one can enjoy unobstructed views. What's more, those views can include some of Venice at its wintry best as darkness and light struggle for ascendancy against the silhouettes of silent bridges and soaring churches. By contrast, he recounted what the city is like during Carnevale, and really put us off the idea of one day going. He said you couldn’t even see the beauty of Venice for the crowds of vulgar marauders; that it attracted the worst kind of people – drunkards who are not only loud and unruly but sometimes violent. We take a dim view of that kind of behavior when it's not ours. .

And who would want views like this blocked?

Even the color of the grand canal and lagoons is prettier off-season.

As we were doing our non-stop clippity-clop into hidden corners of this, to our minds, Brigadoon-ishly magical place, Rosie up and declared that I should rent a place here for a month next year. "You rent a place here for a month next year," I retorted. (I refuse to be bossed around by a precocious little sister who isn't even 60 yet.*) But secretly I began warming to the idea almost immediately. At this writing, I've pulled the trigger on an apartment with three bedrooms and invited all family members who share my crush on Venice, which is most of them. They'll have to work out who comes when. Meanwhile, I'm already looking forward to next winter.

I've dedicated quite a number of posts to Venice in recent years, so going forward will probably focus on quirky little discoveries and hotel and restaurant finds.

I'll try to share hotel options at different price points, starting now. One that seemed nice in the 3-star category was Hotel Bel Sito, situated on a quiet square with good views from some guest rooms and a pleasant reception area.

Having stayed at the lovely Hotel Nolinski last winter, we were hooked on the idea of a 5-star stay and wanted to see what else was on offer in that category. The 5-star Baglioni Hotel Luna got great reviews online, so we started off with two nights there.

Unfortunately, it was a disappointment. We were fans neither of the fatigued décor nor of the half-hearted attempts at first-class treatment from the lobby staff.

Speaking of treatments, though, Baglioni's small spa was first-class and we each had one of the best massages we’d ever had. So much so, in fact, that we went back for seconds even after we'd checked out -- the spa being open to non-guests. I almost never book treatments at hotel spas while traveling, and I’m sure Rosie doesn’t, but this trip kind of broke us physically. Beyond the dawn-to-dusk marathons in Fossacesia to get things done for the house, we were scoring an average of about 18,000 steps per day in Venice , and that included a lot of ups and downs on bridges. (Our per-diem record was 28,000 steps.)

We were happy to migrate (not to say flee?) from the Bagliano down the road a piece for our second two nights.

Ah, Nolinski Sweet Nolinski...

In the 5-star category, Hotel Nolinski was the "winner and still champeen." We'll try another in that caterogry next time for one or two nights.

We were so glad to park ourselves once more in the Nolinski's fabulous hotel bar, where the bartenders are fonts of information. The bar stocks a host of liqueurs we’d never heard of, and the staff encouraged us to sample some. Among them was this Cynar artichoke liqueur, which isn’t quite as bad as it sounds.

In the "curiosities" category, we looked for and found Ponte Chiodo in Fondamenta San Felice. It dates back to the Middle Ages and is the last remaining bridge without a parapet in Venice. Don't try crossing it in heels or if tipsy unless you'd like a mouthful of lagoon water for a nightcap.

We also hunted down the Palazzo Contarini Del Bovolo, aka the Snail House, tucked into a corner of the San Marco sestiere. A 15th-century palazzo built by a founding family of Venice to show off, the palace takes its name from the exterior spiral staircase that resembles a snail from within and that was considered an architectural wonder in 1499. Apparently, the staircase made its screen debut in Orson Welles' 1952 adaptation of Othello. By all means, buy a ticket if you're keen to support the Hidden Gems of Venice in their attempts at preservation; however, the outside is really the only thing to see and you can do that from the ground.

And now a word or two about food.

When in Italy, I usually eat “accidentally vegan” dishes like arrabbiata and bean soups. La Caravella in the Hotel Saturnia is the one restaurant I’ve visited in Venice that actually makes a real effort at vegan recipes, and some are standouts. This time I had a starter of pumpkin and coffee mousse that, unlikely as it sounds, was borderline divine. It was the kind of thing you roll around your tongue and invite to reveal things about itself as it melts in your mouth.

Rosie’s chestnut and onion soup was a Wow! (Those are fried onions on top, in case you're wondering about that thing doing a can-can kick from the plate.) Onion soup is one of the few things I really miss since going vegan ten years. This one worked. The chestnut --which I don’t like, as a rule --lent the richness and body of a beef broth. Amazing. My cutlet of red lentils, potatoes, and turmeric was a winner, too, but not quite in the same league. I’m not going to post more photos, because they all somehow do the dishes an injustice.

Ristorante Da Carletto in the Castello quarter was a very happy find. I got the gnocchi and didn't realize until I'd had a bite that there was cheese in the tomato sauce. The dish was delish, but I asked if they could make me an arrabbiata next time. We went twice and got friendly with the waiters there, in particular a lovely guy named Mido. If you go, tell him Kathryn and Rosemary sent you.

The humming Osteria Mocenigo steps from the San Stae vaporetto stop was a good place to duck into for lunch. My pasta e fagioli was just what I was craving. The place was packed with working men to such an extent that it felt like we'd walked into a construction site with catering -- not an altogether bad sign in Italy. We were relieved to spot one woman at a far table.

We were on a mission this trip to get some new restaurant recs from sources we deemed reliable. The following came from two such sources: the aforementioned jewelry designer with whom we chatted extensively and a hotel bartender we hit up for places he liked to go with friends.

Casin dei Nobili in Dorsoduro intrigued us. The restaurant takes its name from the building it occupies, which was once a bordello frequented by local noblemen. In more modern times, a table of gondoliers usually is a harbinger of a good meal to come, and this was no exception.

Do Forni, hiding in plain sight right in the heart of San Marco just steps from the piazza, was not our cup of tea. It was the kind of restaurant where you felt like you had to whisper. Our waiter was polite enough, but in that way that smacks of condescension. I got the impression they weren't fans of tourists there. No great loss. The food was forgettable.

La Bitta in Dorsoduro was closed the day we wanted to go, but we realized belatedly we'd had dinner there on our last trip and really liked it. The restaurant specializes in "no fish" market menus, and we were definitely among a neighborhood crowd. I guess even Venetians get tired of seafood

We'll hit other restaurants that were recommended to us at later dates. Meanwhile, here's the whole running list (which includes some of our own favorite finds) should it prove useful:

La Caravella (San Marco)

Da Carletto (Castello)

La Bitta (Dorsoduro)

Casin dei Nobili (Dorsoduro)

Do Forni (San Marco)

Osteria Mocenigo (Santa Croce)

Osteria al Portego (Castello)

Il Giardinetto da Severino (Castello)

Oliva Nera (Castello)

Alla Rivetta (Castello -- better for lunch)

Al Vecio Portar (Castello)

Il Covo (Castello)

I Quadri (San Marco) Note: This place is Michelin-starred and fancy.

Al Gatto Nero (Burano)

Trattoria ai Nevodi (Castello)

Following soon: a dispatch from Jubilee year in Rome

*Far from it, in fact