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The importance of buon giorno

I've just been looking through old notes about my experiences years ago in Florence, when I took an 8-week crash course in Italian...

Harvest Boon

My visit to Fossacesia this fall was full of wonderful surprises. The surprise of having friends here who only months ago were strangers...

Down with the sun, up with the color

Well, I’m just back from 12 days in Fossacesia and recovered from a 24-hour post-flight bug. (Thanks again, bacterial convention that is...

Rigatoni & Ceci al Curry

This unusual and simple pasta dish is one of my favorites. There’s a bit of Moorish influence in the Italian kitchen, and the Abruzzo...

Dog Days Redux (This one's more cheerful)

On Wednesday morning, I had a tea date at my home with Angela, a Manchester native who now lives in nearby Torino di Sangro. She arrived...

Dog Days

Well, life got in the way of posting over these last weeks, so I’m picking up again with my July trip. Sorry that it qualifies now as a...

The beach is back.

Usually, you can count on July in Italy to bring 31 days of sun. Not this year. On July 10th, I took a pullman from Rome to Pescara,...

A Meet-up, a Memory, and Two Epiphanies

It's a kick to meet expats and hear about their towns and experiences. I'd found Mark, a transplant from Seattle only two years ago, in...

Traditional Soup with a Side of Charm

Dense, flavorful, and comforting sagnette e fagioli is the Abruzzo region’s take on the better-known pasta e fagioli (or pasta fazul in...

Tornareccio: A Honey of a Town

The following Monday, Victoria and I took a 45-minute road trip to Tornareccio. Victoria wisely suggested we use Google maps, which I...

A Few of My FavoriteThings

Wrought-iron bed that three people can fit in, Sketches of horses where artist has written… Since I left off talking about the artisanal...

On the Road in Abruzzo

Victoria’s and my first jaunt was to Guardiagrele, one of two villages in Abruzzo that I know of (the other being Pescocostanzo) where...

Scenes from Fossacesia

Meanwhile, my niece Victoria visited for a few days from Dublin, where she’s spending the year. It was lovely to bond with her outside...

Four Friends and a Few Nuts

My road to a home in Italy, and then to a habitable one, and then to one in which I feel at home has been and continues to be a tortuous...

Healthful Dishes, More Helpful Drugs

After my night in Rome, I headed to Fossacesia. As I wrote in my last post, I’d arrived in Italy feeling pretty crummy. By the time I got...

Lend me your ears.

Well, friends, Romans, and others who get the idea... I’ve shamefully neglected this blog for weeks, in part because I’ve been low on...

Matta per la Cipollata!

I love homely contadino food. Always have. Show me a garlicky tomato sauce or thick bean soup or almost any mashup of humble ingredients...

Strangers on Trains

“Is there a train called an expresso here?,” the American 20-something shouted at the woman behind the ticket window at the Santa Lucia...

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