A few curiosities and one wardrobe malfunction
After weeks of dread prior to my departure — dread that I wouldn’t have the right Covid documents to enter Italy or get back into New...
Diving Back into Italy!
Well, after 19 months away, I landed on Italian soil this morning. I must admit I wasn’t really looking forward to this trip because I’ve...
The Accidental Miscreant
As I've mentioned earlier, Italians love to scold. They'll shake their heads, wag their fingers, cluck their tongues at you for all kinds...
The importance of buon giorno
I've just been looking through old notes about my experiences years ago in Florence, when I took an 8-week crash course in Italian...
Harvest Boon
My visit to Fossacesia this fall was full of wonderful surprises. The surprise of having friends here who only months ago were strangers...
Down with the sun, up with the color
Well, I’m just back from 12 days in Fossacesia and recovered from a 24-hour post-flight bug. (Thanks again, bacterial convention that is...
Rigatoni & Ceci al Curry
This unusual and simple pasta dish is one of my favorites. There’s a bit of Moorish influence in the Italian kitchen, and the Abruzzo...
Dog Days Redux (This one's more cheerful)
On Wednesday morning, I had a tea date at my home with Angela, a Manchester native who now lives in nearby Torino di Sangro. She arrived...
Dog Days
Well, life got in the way of posting over these last weeks, so I’m picking up again with my July trip. Sorry that it qualifies now as a...
The beach is back.
Usually, you can count on July in Italy to bring 31 days of sun. Not this year. On July 10th, I took a pullman from Rome to Pescara,...
A Meet-up, a Memory, and Two Epiphanies
It's a kick to meet expats and hear about their towns and experiences. I'd found Mark, a transplant from Seattle only two years ago, in...
Trastevere: Sacred & Profane, Anachronistic & Alive, Gorgeous & Gritty
Festooned as it is with ivy and bougainvillea (or some other flower I've decided to call bougainvillea) and packed as it is with cool...
Traditional Soup with a Side of Charm
Dense, flavorful, and comforting sagnette e fagioli is the Abruzzo region’s take on the better-known pasta e fagioli (or pasta fazul in...
More New Friends, Assorted Observations, and Noteworthy Advice
Near the end of my trip this spring, I had a coffee date with Anna, a young Canadian with roots in Fossacesia whom I’d met in one of the...
Tornareccio: A Honey of a Town
The following Monday, Victoria and I took a 45-minute road trip to Tornareccio. Victoria wisely suggested we use Google maps, which I...
A Few of My FavoriteThings
Wrought-iron bed that three people can fit in, Sketches of horses where artist has written… Since I left off talking about the artisanal...
On the Road in Abruzzo
Victoria’s and my first jaunt was to Guardiagrele, one of two villages in Abruzzo that I know of (the other being Pescocostanzo) where...
Scenes from Fossacesia
Meanwhile, my niece Victoria visited for a few days from Dublin, where she’s spending the year. It was lovely to bond with her outside...
Four Friends and a Few Nuts
My road to a home in Italy, and then to a habitable one, and then to one in which I feel at home has been and continues to be a tortuous...























